Lead Flashing Around Chimneys Derby — Repair or Replace
Call: 01332-529704
A chimney with failing lead flashing rarely announces itself with a dramatic leak on day one. It starts as a lifted edge, a hairline crack, or a mortar chase that’s gone soft, and it works quietly behind the tiles until damp shows up on a chimney breast or ceiling below. We inspect and repair chimney lead flashing across Derby and Derbyshire every week, checking all four parts of the system — apron, soakers, step flashing, and back gutter — rather than patching the one visible symptom.
- Own Team, No Subcontractors
- IPAF & PASMA-Certified Access
- Free Drone Survey Available
- Free Quotation, No Obligation

What Is Lead Flashing Around a Chimney and What Does It Do?
Lead flashing is a Code 4 or Code 5 lead sheet sealed into the join between your chimney stack and the surrounding roof tiles. Its job is simple: stop rainwater running down the chimney face and into the roof structure below.
Without it — or when it fails — water finds its way into the roof void, soaks your timbers, and eventually works its way into your home as damp patches or brown ceiling stains.
A correctly installed system has four parts:
- Apron flashing — the front-facing piece, dressed over the tiles at the base of the stack
- Soakers — small individual lead pieces fitted under each tile course up both sides of the chimney
- Step flashing — the visible stepped lead strips over the soakers, chased into the mortar joints
- Back gutter — the lead channel at the uphill rear face, channelling water around the stack
All four parts must be present and correctly fitted. If any one of them fails, the whole system is at risk. Lead is the gold standard for chimney flashing in the UK because it flexes with temperature changes, resists corrosion, and — when installed correctly — lasts 50 to 70 years. Derby’s large stock of Victorian and Edwardian terraced housing means many chimney stacks sit mid-slope on clay tile roofs, putting the back gutter under heavy water load every time Derbyshire gets prolonged rainfall — which makes correct installation, and the right lead code for each component, critical.
How Do I Know If My Chimney Lead Flashing Is Failing?
Catch it early and the repair is small. Leave it and the damage spreads fast. Here is what to look for before you call us.
From outside — checking from ground level:
- Lead that has visibly lifted or pulled away from the chimney face
- Cracks or splits in the lead surface
- Lead that has been painted over with black bitumen tar — a classic short-term bodge that is almost certainly failing by now
- Crumbling or missing mortar at the base of the stack where it meets the tiles
- A grey or white cement band instead of lead — this is a cement fillet and will be cracking

From inside the loft:
- Daylight visible around the chimney brickwork at roof level
- Damp staining or tide marks on chimney breast timbers
- Wet or soft timber at the rear of the stack — a strong sign the back gutter is failing
Inside the house:
- Damp patches or brown staining on the chimney breast wall
- Watermarks or staining on ceilings directly below the chimney
- Peeling wallpaper near the fireplace, particularly on upper floors
Homeowners across Chaddesden and Spondon regularly contact us after spotting these internal signs first — the chimney stacks on the DE21 terraced housing stock are often carrying original lead that has never been replaced. If your home was built before 1970 and the flashing has never been touched, a professional inspection is overdue.

Why Does My Chimney Only Leak When It Rains Heavily?
This is one of the most common questions we hear — and the answer almost always points back to the flashing.
Heavy rainfall: A small gap that stays dry in light rain cannot cope with the volume of water a sustained downpour sends down the chimney face. Water backs up behind lifted lead or into a partially open mortar chase and finds a way through.
Wind-driven rain: Derbyshire’s westerly weather pushes rain horizontally against the chimney face. This forces water under any flashing edge that is not fully bedded into the mortar joint. Exposed ridge-line stacks across parts of Mickleover are particularly vulnerable.
Saturated mortar: After days of wet weather, the mortar around the flashing chase becomes waterlogged. Even with no visible gap, water wicks through the joint and into the roof structure — which is why a chimney leak can creep up gradually rather than appearing all at once. It is also worth checking beyond the flashing: water at the chimney breast can also come from cracked or missing flaunching around the chimney pot, failed pointing on the stack brickwork, a missing or broken chimney cap, or porous brickwork absorbing water directly through the stack face. We check all of these during every inspection — not just the lead.
Can Chimney Lead Flashing Be Repaired, or Does It Need Replacing?
When we inspect a chimney in Derby, we look at the whole system — not just the part that is visibly failing. The answer depends on what we find.
Repair is usually the right call when:
- A single section of step flashing has lifted out of its mortar chase
- The lap on the apron flashing has opened slightly but the lead itself is sound
- The mortar in the chase has crumbled but the lead is in good overall condition

Full replacement is needed when:
- The lead shows widespread cracking, thinning, or corrosion across more than one component
- Previous repairs have been made with bitumen tar, sealant, or mortar fillet — these materials cannot flex with the lead and will keep failing
- The original installation was never a complete system — soakers missing, back gutter absent, or lead chased in incorrectly
- The flashing is original to a 1960s or 1970s build and has never been replaced
In Littleover and Mackworth, we frequently work on post-war semi-detached properties where the original leadwork is well past its service life — on roofs of that age, a full re-lead is almost always the better investment. One point worth knowing: replacing the flashing does not mean replacing the chimney. The leadwork is completely independent of the stack. In most cases we lift the surrounding tiles, re-lead, and relay — without touching the brickwork above.

What Is the Difference Between Lead Flashing, Soakers, and a Back Gutter?
If a surveyor’s report has flagged these terms and you are not sure what they mean, here is a plain-language breakdown of each component.
Soakers are small pieces of lead hidden under each course of tiles or slates up the sides of the chimney. You cannot see them without lifting tiles. Their job is to catch water dripping off each tile and direct it down to the next course. If soakers are missing — which is common on older Derby roofs — step flashing alone cannot stop the sides of the chimney leaking.
Step flashing is the visible lead running up the chimney sides in a stepped pattern, chased into the mortar joints. It sits over the soakers and provides the outer waterproof layer. It fails most often when mortar in the chase crumbles and the lead pulls free.
Back gutter is the lead channel at the rear of the chimney — the uphill face that takes the greatest volume of water running down the roof slope. It is the component that fails most often and is the most frequent cause of chimney leaks; we use Code 5 lead for back gutters because of the water volume this area handles. Apron flashing covers the front lower face of the chimney where it meets the tiles and is generally the last component to fail. On chimney stacks in Darley Abbey and Park Farm — where slate roofs are more common — soakers are always required alongside step flashing. When we quote for a chimney re-lead in Derby, all four components are included as standard.
My Chimney Has Cement Fillets Instead of Lead Flashing — Is That a Problem?
Yes — and it is more common across Derby than most homeowners realise. A cement fillet is a strip of sand and cement mortar applied directly to the join between the chimney and the roof tiles. It was widely used on houses built between the 1950s and 1980s as a cheaper alternative to lead, and it is still found on a large number of properties across Mickleover, Allestree, Mackworth, and Chellaston.
The fundamental problem is that cement cannot flex. As the chimney stack and roof expand and contract through the seasons, the fillet cracks. Derby’s freeze-thaw winter cycles accelerate this — frost gets into hairline cracks, expands, and opens them further. Once cracked, water gets in.

Signs your chimney has cement fillets rather than lead:
- A grey or white mortar band running around the base of the chimney stack
- No visible strip of lead along the chimney sides or front face
- Cracks or gaps in the mortar join between the stack and the tiles
When we replace a cement fillet, we remove all old mortar, cut proper chases into the brickwork, and install a full Code 4/5 lead flashing system — soakers, step flashing, apron, and back gutter. This is not a patch repair — it is the correct installation that should have been done originally, and it will outlast cement fillet by several decades.
Cement Fillet vs Proper Lead Flashing on a Derby Chimney
| Factor | Cement Fillet | Correctly Installed Lead Flashing |
|---|---|---|
| Typical lifespan | Starts cracking within 10 to 20 years | Lasts 50 to 70 years |
| Handles building movement | No — rigid, cracks as the chimney and roof expand and contract | Yes — lead flexes with seasonal temperature changes |
| Derbyshire freeze-thaw winters | Frost opens hairline cracks further each winter | Unaffected when correctly chased and lapped |
| Covers the full flashing system | Usually just a mortar band — soakers and back gutter often missing | Complete four-part system: apron, soakers, step flashing, back gutter |
| When it fails | Whole fillet generally needs removing and replacing with lead | Localised sections can often be repaired without a full re-lead |

Is Lead Flashing Around a Chimney a DIY Job?
We would not recommend it — and here is why. Lead has to be cut accurately to size, dressed into shape using proper lead dressing tools, and chased into the brickwork at the correct depth. Getting the lap depths wrong, skipping soakers, or failing to seal the chase correctly will cause the repair to fail within one season of Derbyshire rain.
The most common “DIY fix” we replace is black bitumen paint or roofing sealant applied over failed flashing. It holds briefly — sometimes a few months — then cracks as the lead moves beneath it, and the leak returns. This often leaves the homeowner paying twice: once for the sealant, once for us to strip it off and do the job properly.
Working at height safely also requires proper equipment and risk management. A chimney flashing job is not a ladder-and-hope situation — it requires correct access and, on taller stacks, scaffolding. Our own IPAF and PASMA-certified team members handle this directly.
How We Check and Repair Apron, Soakers, Step Flashing and Back Gutter
- Call and free inspection: You get in touch describing what you’ve noticed — a leak in heavy rain, damp staining, or a concern flagged by a surveyor. We book a free inspection, with a drone survey available where it helps get a clearer look at the stack.
- Checking all four components in turn: We look at apron, soakers, step flashing, and back gutter one by one, from ground level, from inside the loft, and inside the house if there’s staining, rather than stopping once we’ve spotted one obvious cause. Flaunching, pointing, and the chimney cap get checked at the same time, since they can cause the same symptoms.
- Access arranged for the stack: Low, accessible chimneys can often be reached by ladder with the right equipment. Taller or steeper stacks need scaffolding or tower access, which our IPAF and PASMA-certified team members handle directly rather than waiting on a hired-in crew.
- Repairing or re-leading component by component: Where the apron or step flashing has lifted but the rest is sound, we re-dress or renew that section alone. Soakers are replaced individually as the tiles are lifted. A failing back gutter is rebuilt in wider Code 5 lead rather than patched over. Where more than one part has failed, we replace the whole system together, using the correct lead code for each component.
- Completion and explanation: We leave the site tidy and talk you through which of the four components were repaired, which were left as they were, and anything else worth watching, such as flaunching or pointing due for attention separately.



Apron, Soakers, Step Flashing and Back Gutter: What's Covered in a Repair
- Apron flashing at the front of the stack, checked for opened laps or lifted edges and repaired or replaced in Code 4 lead where it’s failed
- Soakers down each side of the chimney — the small interlocking pieces under the tile courses — replaced where perished, too few were fitted originally, or they’ve worked loose
- Step flashing over the soakers, re-dressed or renewed and chased back into the mortar joints at the right depth
- Back gutter behind the stack rebuilt in Code 5 lead where it’s undersized, split, or has been patched over with sealant
- Localised repair of a single failed component, such as a lifted soaker or an opened apron lap, where the rest of the system is still sound
- Full re-lead of all four parts together where the lead has failed throughout the stack, including stripping out an old cement fillet first
- Lifting and relaying the surrounding roof tiles to get at the soakers and step flashing
- Stripping out old bitumen tar or sealant bodges before proper repair work goes ahead on any of the four components
- Checking flaunching, pointing, and the chimney cap while we’re up there, since these cause the same damp symptoms as failed flashing

Not Included / Costed Separately
- Rebuilding or repointing the chimney stack brickwork itself — only carried out if flaunching or pointing has separately failed
- Scaffolding or tower access on taller or steeper stacks — assessed and costed separately once we’ve seen the roof
- Internal replastering or redecorating once damp-affected areas have dried out
- Chimney pot replacement, unless agreed as part of the same job
- Sealant or bitumen tar ‘quick fixes’ — we don’t offer these as they fail within months and cost more in the long run
What Repairing Each Flashing Component Costs in Derby
Price follows the scale of work needed on each of the four components rather than a flat rate. A localised repair to step flashing or a single soaker sits at the lower end, since it’s often a case of lifting a few tiles and re-dressing lead that’s already there. Apron replacement is usually mid-range, depending on the width of the stack. A back gutter rebuild tends to cost more, because it’s built in heavier Code 5 lead and often means dismantling and reforming the box behind the chimney rather than just re-dressing a surface. A full re-lead covering all four parts, especially one that starts with stripping out an old cement fillet, sits at the top of the range. We give a written quote after the free inspection — including drone survey where it’s useful — so the figure reflects which of the four components your chimney actually needs work on rather than a generic estimate.

One Team Checking Apron, Soakers, Step Flashing and Back Gutter Together
Chimney leaks often get diagnosed by whichever component is easiest to see from the ground, usually the apron, while a lifted soaker or a thin back gutter keeps letting water in after the visible repair’s done. We check all four parts together on every visit, and the same person who inspects a chimney in Allestree, Mickleover, Chaddesden or Spondon is the one cutting and dressing the lead on site, rather than a subcontractor working from someone else’s notes.
On the taller Victorian stacks around Normanton and the city centre, or the steeper roofs out towards Belper and Duffield, our own IPAF and PASMA-held access gets us up safely without waiting on scaffolding hire.
We fit the correct lead code for each part — Code 4 for apron, soakers, and step flashing, Code 5 for back gutters — rather than whatever’s cheapest, and we don’t patch a failing component with sealant or bitumen tar as a short-term fix. Every enquiry gets a free inspection, with a drone survey available, before any work or quote is agreed. Most of our chimney lead flashing jobs are within Derby itself — Allestree, Mickleover, Oakwood, Chaddesden, Spondon, Littleover, Alvaston, Chellaston and the streets around the city centre — and further out we regularly work across Derbyshire in Belper, Duffield, Ripley, Heanor, Ilkeston, Long Eaton, Swadlincote, Ashbourne, and Matlock.
Areas We Cover for Chimney Lead Flashing Repairs
Derby Roofers proudly serves homeowners and businesses throughout Derby city and the wider Derbyshire area. Our local teams cover all of Derby city and the surrounding towns and villages below — not sure if we cover your area? Call us on 01332-529704 and we’ll be happy to help.
- Derby City Centre (DE1)
- Allestree, Mackworth & Quarndon (DE22)
- Mickleover (DE3)
- Littleover & Normanton (DE23)
- Chaddesden, Oakwood & Spondon (DE21)
- Alvaston, Crewton & Osmaston (DE24)
- Belper (DE56)
- Ripley (DE5)
- Ilkeston (DE7)
- Heanor (DE75)
- Swadlincote (DE11)
- Ashbourne (DE6)
- Matlock (DE4)
- Borrowash & Draycott (DE72)
- Etwall & Hilton (DE65)
- Melbourne & Chellaston (DE73)
- Duffield & Little Eaton
- Breadsall & Darley Abbey
- Long Eaton (NG10)
- Castle Donington (DE74)
Frequently Asked Questions About Lead Flashing Around Chimneys
How long does lead flashing around a chimney last?
Correctly installed Code 4 or Code 5 lead flashing lasts 50 to 70 years. Early failure is almost always the result of poor original installation — wrong lead code, soakers omitted, or chases not cut to the correct depth. Cement fillets used in place of lead typically start cracking within 10 to 20 years.
Why is my chimney leaking even though the lead looks fine from the ground?
The most common reason is that the back gutter — at the rear of the chimney — has failed. You cannot see it from ground level. Soakers beneath the tiles may also have slipped or be missing entirely. We inspect the full flashing system, not just the visible sections.
Can chimney lead flashing be repaired without replacing the whole chimney stack?
Yes. In most cases the leadwork is completely independent of the stack brickwork. We lift the surrounding tiles, replace or re-seat the flashing, and relay — without needing to touch the brickwork above unless pointing or flaunching has also failed.
What is the correct lead code for chimney flashing?
Code 4 is the standard for step flashing, apron flashing, and soakers on chimney stacks. Code 5 should be used for back gutters, which handle the greatest volume of water. Using the wrong code — particularly anything lighter than Code 4 — significantly shortens the lifespan of the installation.
Will failing chimney flashing cause damp inside my house?
Yes. Water tracking through failed flashing soaks into roof timbers and chimney breast plasterwork — often for months before a visible damp patch appears. Catching it early avoids structural timber damage and expensive internal replastering.
Do I need scaffolding to repair chimney lead flashing in Derby?
It depends on the height and pitch of the roof. Low, accessible chimney stacks can often be reached safely by ladder with proper equipment. Taller stacks on steeper roofs require scaffolding for safe access. We assess this during the inspection and will be straight with you about what is needed.
How do I know if my chimney flashing needs repairing or replacing?
If the failure is localised — one section of step flashing has lifted, for example — a repair is often appropriate. If the lead is cracked across multiple sections, is thin with age, or was previously patched with bitumen or sealant, full replacement is the right call. We will tell you clearly which applies after our inspection.
Can I just use sealant or roofing tar to fix a leaking chimney flashing?
This is a temporary measure at best. Sealants and bitumen tar cannot move with the lead as it expands and contracts. They crack within months in the British climate and the leak returns — often worse than before. A proper lead repair is the only lasting solution.
Book a Chimney Lead Flashing Inspection in Derby
A leaking chimney does not fix itself — and the longer it is left, the more it costs to put right. Water that starts as a small gap in the flashing will eventually soak into roof timbers, rot the back gutter board, stain your chimney breast plasterwork, and work its way into ceiling joists. What starts as a straightforward lead repair becomes a much larger job.
At Derby Roofers, we inspect chimney lead flashing across Derby and Derbyshire and give you a straight answer — repair or replace, what is involved, and how long it will last. We carry out all leadwork ourselves, use the correct lead codes for every component, and do not patch over problems with sealant.
- ✅ Free inspection and free drone survey available
- ✅ Own team carries out all leadwork — no subcontractors
- ✅ IPAF & PASMA-certified access on taller or awkward stacks
- ✅ Correct lead code for every component, every time
If your chimney is leaking, or you have not had your flashing inspected and your home was built before 1980, call us today.
